Being more than half a day ahead of schedule due to the weather, I had decided on beforehand to take one day completely off here in Saltoluokta.
My rest day started with the breakfast buffet they serve every morning between 7 and 9, what a treat to have eggs, cheese, ham, and some fresh veggies for breakfast!
My plan was to intentionally and purposefully overeat and overcompensate some for the lower intake of food during the tour so far.
This plan was effectuated to perfection, now just during breakfast, I also bought some peanuts as an extra snack, and had my normal dinner in the evening.
I promised myself a real rest day and spent my time reading, chatting with other people at the station, sauna and just relaxing.
Saltoluokta is a perfect place to take a day off, comfortable chairs, generous sauna hours and great food!
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Once again I woke up early to the sound of rain falling on the tent, the weather had changed completely overnight and the beautiful clear evening last night had been replaced by thick fog and rain.
Thankfully it stopped raining while I was going through my morning routine, still, the fog made it impossible to get the tent dry.
Knowing I only had 15km to Saltoluokta and there would probably be enough wind at the lake to dry out the tent before evening, I made an exception and packed it wet just to get going in the morning. There was no way telling how long the fog would stay…
Visibility was really low for the first half of the hike, yet the trail is so clear that it was super easy to follow. The weather didn’t invite to any extended breaks, still, I was in no hurry and took the time to look around for some mushrooms during the last few km, finding well enough for a good-sized snack upon arrival at the station.
My package with food for the last 15 days of the tour had arrived and was waiting for me when I checked in after pitching my tent to dry in the air.
I then kept myself busy throughout the afternoon sorting, repacking and taking care of equipment. Especially the boots needed some attention, cleaning and greasing to get them watertight again for the next part of the tour.
Finally, I got to sauna, dinner and some socializing with other hikers before calling it a day and retiring to my, now completely dry, tent.
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This has been a real rest day for me, slept in until almost 8am and, after taking down the tent, spent most of the am inside the cabin. Taking care of equipment, chatting with other hikers, drinking coffee and tea, and just resting. I totally needed this!
The boat left at 2 pm and I kept my promise to myself even after getting to the other side of the lake. Akka cabin is only 2km from where the boat lands, and that was as far as I went!
Turned out there were no other guests at the time and after chopping some wood I fired up the sauna and spent over an hour switching between the hot sauna and cold shower.
After dinner and some reading inside I’m going out to the tent early, there is a really strong wind blowing from the lake and falling asleep might be a challenge!
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Woke up rather early around 6 am, felt rested and ready to start the day. The sky was cloudy and looked like it would rain later so I wiped off the tent first thing and let the rest of the moisture blow away in the wind while getting through my morning routine and ready for the day. Thankfully no rain in the morning and I could break everything down dry!
Just before 8 am I started on the trail towards Ritsem and followed it through the birch forest. Now, rain-drenched birch forest with lots of low bushes and occasional wetlands (yet I have to admit the trail for the most part elegantly led between the really wet areas) has never been my favorite condition when hiking. And 1.5h into the day it started to rain again, light at first and then more and more heavy rain, the kind that gets You wet all the way to the bare skin regardless of what kind of rain gear You’re wearing. Don’t know for sure if it’s all the mental and emotional work I’ve been through in the last years, the fact that I’m in ketosis, or both, yet I was in a perfect and pleasant mood the entire way.
After some time the trail raised above the tree line and I’m sure the view over Akkajaure and the Akka mountains on the opposite shore would be majestic, if not obscured by clouds and rain. I got a few glimpses of the view, though most of the time there was only mist, clouds, and raindrops around me.
Now, the trail itself was remarkably clear and easy to follow. Just a couple of times during the 20km I had to stop and look twice where to go next. Even the parts through the thickest woods were clear enough and nearing Ritsem there was an almost ridiculous amount of red paint used to mark the trail.
Ironically the rain stopped almost entirely just about 1km before I reached the mountain station and the rest of the day was dry. Still, I spend most of it inside, taking care of equipment, chatting with other hikers and purposefully overeating on keto foods.
I felt I had taken in way too little energy during the first two weeks and started my stay in Ritsem with six eggs scrambled in 100g of butter, at night followed by my usual dinner and a generous amount of nuts!
Oh, and yes, the mattress situation got sorted, they had one last, very old fashion, mattress still in stock. I’m really grateful I did not have to spend more than 24h going to Gällivare, and having to stay there overnight, just to replace the damaged gear!
I also decided to go for the afternoon boat to Änonjalme the next day, and aim for a real rest day! I think my legs will reward me for that in the weeks to come!
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I slept fantastic, such a wonderful feeling to go to bed really clean for the first time in almost a week. The temperature es really pleasant during the night, I had to close my sleeping bag and then I had perfect conditions inside. I almost slept through, only remember waking once during the night .
The morning is slightly moist with low clouds and I have some condensation on the inside of the tent.
It’ll just have to stay here waiting for some wind while I go over to the cabin for coffee.
Usually some wind comes up in the morning and that will dry the tent in no time, and if it I’ll just have to hang if inside for an hour or so!
Today is planned to be a slow day and I right now really hope that the weather forecast will support that plan. My legs are weary and I don’t feel like doing anything more exhausting today!
20:30 Camp at Vistas Cabin
After all I decided to grant myself the first real rest day of the trip, my body needed to recover some more, the people in the cabin were friendly, interesting and pleasant and the snow at higher altitude did not at all invite to do the exit over Mårma that I originally had planned.
Interestingly enough my good friend Helge from Freiburg showed up unexpectedly during the afternoon and we got the opportunity to catch up over a cup of tea. Turned out his cell phone had stoppet working properly and none of us had received the messages from each other. Him turning up here in Vistas was just another of the inexplicable things that happen all the time in my life these days.
Anyway, later in the afternoon I pitched my tent right next to the cabin and enjoyed the sauna for the second day in a row before having dinner and planning the next day. Depending on the weather I might just go for camping next to cabins on my way out, I need my stuff to be reasonably dry when I come home or my cats will just have too much fun claw-climbing my tent in the apartment…
Day 28th – August 24th 2018
20:30 Camp next to Alesjaure cabin
Slow relaxed hiking day up Vistasvagge, I started mid morning together with Mikael, one of the guys I met at Vistas and we took it really easy hiking up the valley.
A day full of pleasant conversations, a couple of tea breaks and totally acceptable weather conditions.
We had a couple of showers hitting us yet nothing serious and, to be frank, I wouldn’t have had to camp here in close proximity to the cabin. It´s just that the next good camp site is found quite a few km farther down the trail and going there would have rendered tomorrows hike ridiculously short.
Hiking in Vistasvagge is always beautiful, the valley itself is stunning and the trail soft and friendly most of the time. And they really put in some work marking the trail when approaching Alesjaure, earlier years there has been some confusion as the Sami village right next to the cabin has produced an abundance of intertwining trails.
Arriving at the cabin mid afternoon I picked a spot and pitched my tent on semi dry ground, enjoying the warmth of the cabin reading and talking with other hikers.
One of the cabin hosts I had met a few years earlier in Unna Allakas and seeing him again was a really pleasant surprise.
As I managed to keep myself dry and warm most of the hike I didn’t feel any need for sauna but checked out for an early evening in the tent instead!
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It’s a tough day, you just have to embrace it – rest day ?
Woke up rested and relaxed, feeling no hunger at all. Had my coffee, read and sit staying at the camp a little longer with the novel for company while the tent dried out from the nightly showers.
As I knew I’d stay at Vistas cabin and wait for my friend Helge I was in no hurry at all, we plan to meet today or tomorrow and I have all the time I possibly need and only a good 5km to go.
Arriving at the cabin just prior to 11 am I cross the bridge to find a spot at the camp site, this early all where available and I picked a really nice one.
Perfect size for the tent, flat and smooth and pretty close to the river. After fetching some water for tea the rain kicked in and I spent the next few hours relaxing in the tent.
My track record with rest days is not really convincing, I normally get bored after just a few hours and want to move on, yet this year this day this spot felt blissful. I can’t say if it’s the weariness i still experience, if I start to educe a peace of mind I lacked up to this point or if it is due to some combination of these. Maybe something entirely different is at play here, whatever is going on I’m thoroughly enjoying the hours in the tent, reading, drinking tea, relaxing,
meditating and contemplating life.
A visit to the cabin renders more tea and some pleasant conversations with the hosts and other guests. It’s a bummer the hosts don’t want to do an interview, naturally I feel opposed to persuade them, though.
In the end I lived through an immensely enjoyable day, shot a bunch of photos and commenced experimenting with different filters, met great people, engaged in inspiring conversations and still had sufficient time for myself to relax, unwind and contemplate life.
In short it was the perfect rest day!
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Woke up when the sun starts heating up the tent (it disappeared behind clouds pretty soon, though…), unzipped the sleeping bag and just enjoyed being lazy for a little while before leaving the tent and breaking camp.
Right tendon more swollen and I decided on a short hike of just 3-4km to Unna Allakas and spend the rest of that day resting at the cabin, already looking forward to the evening sauna.
Funny how the close proximity of a sauna can enhance the feeling of needing to clean up ?
Upon arrival I raised the tent in my favorite spot before entering the cabin and greeting Torgny who was pretty surprised to see me again so soon.
Inside the cabin is another guy on rest day, Birger, who started his hike on July 10th and now is on his way to meet his girl friend I’m Abisko, hike the next part together with her and then finish alone towards the very northern parts of Norway.
Amazing conversations, great company and lots of food made the day fly by while the cabin slowly filled up with people, leaving us with a very international lot from 6 different countries including a couple from Austria mountain biking along the trails, a guy from Belgium who had hikes the glacier of Storsteinfjellet alone (NOT recommended) and was lucky enough to come down alive…
And a group of mountain runners arriving later in the evening!
Birger
Belgian Alpinist
The Runners
Lisa from Germany and Guido from Italy
Sauna was fantastic as expected and the view extraordinary!
After some more chatting, dinner and a few cups of tea I was ready for the tent.
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y, you just have to embrace it – rest day ?
e tent.
want to do an interview, naturally I feel opposed to persuade them, though.
Woke up when the sun starts heating up the tent (it disappeared behind clouds pretty soon, though…), unzipped the sleeping bag and just enjoyed being lazy for a little while before leaving the tent and breaking camp.
