Being more than half a day ahead of schedule due to the weather, I had decided on beforehand to take one day completely off here in Saltoluokta.
My rest day started with the breakfast buffet they serve every morning between 7 and 9, what a treat to have eggs, cheese, ham, and some fresh veggies for breakfast!
My plan was to intentionally and purposefully overeat and overcompensate some for the lower intake of food during the tour so far.
This plan was effectuated to perfection, now just during breakfast, I also bought some peanuts as an extra snack, and had my normal dinner in the evening.
I promised myself a real rest day and spent my time reading, chatting with other people at the station, sauna and just relaxing.
Saltoluokta is a perfect place to take a day off, comfortable chairs, generous sauna hours and great food!
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Once again I woke up early to the sound of rain falling on the tent, the weather had changed completely overnight and the beautiful clear evening last night had been replaced by thick fog and rain.
Thankfully it stopped raining while I was going through my morning routine, still, the fog made it impossible to get the tent dry.
Knowing I only had 15km to Saltoluokta and there would probably be enough wind at the lake to dry out the tent before evening, I made an exception and packed it wet just to get going in the morning. There was no way telling how long the fog would stay…
Visibility was really low for the first half of the hike, yet the trail is so clear that it was super easy to follow. The weather didn’t invite to any extended breaks, still, I was in no hurry and took the time to look around for some mushrooms during the last few km, finding well enough for a good-sized snack upon arrival at the station.
My package with food for the last 15 days of the tour had arrived and was waiting for me when I checked in after pitching my tent to dry in the air.
I then kept myself busy throughout the afternoon sorting, repacking and taking care of equipment. Especially the boots needed some attention, cleaning and greasing to get them watertight again for the next part of the tour.
Finally, I got to sauna, dinner and some socializing with other hikers before calling it a day and retiring to my, now completely dry, tent.
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Totally recommend this hike around Robberg, my friend Jim did the shorter one by Witsand, while I rounded the entire peninsula.
The trail was mostly well marked and easy to both find and walk, stretches are rather steep and You need to take Your time, yet as long as You’re reasonably fit, You should be able to get around the longer trail. Just be forewarned that a few parts involve more or less climbing up and down rocks and hillside, and You need a certain degree of agility to manage those stretches.
Most of the first half runs along the top of the northern cliff ridge of the peninsula, opening up a stunning view of the bay with a beautiful beach stretching far towards the horizon and, of course, the city of Plettenberg Bay, in season overflowing with tourists and summer guests while more or less empty the rest of the year.
You will probably hear the sound of seals from the cliffs below and be able to view them from quite a few spots along the trail, just make sure to stay on the trail as I’m unsure about the conditions of the cliffs. The rock looks like it could be brittle!
At the halfway point You get a fantastic view of the Indian Ocean and will probably notice the contrast between the rather calm bay and the ocean to the west. The trail continues over rocks and cliffs closer to the shoreline, before turning back up the hillside and a stunning view of the coast to the west.
Gotta love the irony of, at some points, having to virtually use Your hands to scramble and climb up rocks and cliffs, and a little later walking on boards and down a wooden stairway. Personally, I don’t really get the thinking behind that…
Along the west side of Robberg, there’s a cabin for an overnight stay, a permit must be obtained ahead of time, and I have no idea how long in advanced the place is booked. Definitely gonna look into it for my next visit in this area. Falling asleep to the sound of the waves crashing over the rocks must be just awesome!!!
Passing over a fantabulous sandy beach, the trail soon leads back up the hillside for quite some elevation on the way back to the ‘Gap’ and farther on to the parking area.
The signs at the trailhead recommend 4 hours for the round trip, I did it in just under 2 without hurrying through, and I think most people will find their true time somewhere in between. Just bring water and, unless You’re reasonably fat adapted, maybe some snacks, take Your time and enjoy the view and the adventure – it’s all good!
Let me know what You think and Peace be the Journey!!!
Again I wake up early, and again to the sound of raindrops falling on the tent. Not very alarming at 6 am, I’m in no hurry to leave, yet looking out and seeing I’m literally camping in the clouds at 1100m was a little more disturbing. As I mentioned before, I really don’t like packing a wet tent and there’s no way to tell when clouds will move on. Just rain isn’t as bad, there’s always a half hour break somewhere between showers, and that’s enough to dry the tent reasonably.
Today I was lucky and just after 9, the rain got lighter and shortly after also the clouds started lifting and it made sense to wipe off the tent.
Just shy of 10 I was all packed and ready to go, though the visibility was still really bad and I was giving up on visiting Skierfe with its famous scenic view over Rapa valley. Staying higher up on the mountainside to cut some distance, suddenly the sky opens up and I realize there is a chance to get some view over the valley.
Instantly I change direction and chose the shortest possible route to the summit of Skierfe. Doubtful if it was also the fastest, as it took me through quite some bushwhacking areas and steep uphill slopes, yet it was fun and I got where I wanted.
The clouds not high above me, yet high enough to show the magnificent valley and let me get some photos and a video!
A cold wind drove me to continue my hike after just a shortstop up there. Using the trail down from the cliff, I soon abandoned it to get a better line of travel and, I have to admit, to avoid meeting all the people going on a day tour from Aktse up on Skierfe. I wanted some additional time of solitude before hitting the Kungsleden on my way north.
Crossing the Njunjes hill from southwest to northeast I came down to Kungsleden just before the descent to Sitojaure began. I followed the worn down trail downhill and through the woods, again finding more than enough mushrooms to supplement my dinner generously.
Reaching the lake I was lucky enough to catch a motor boat transport right away, it costs SEK 350:- to ride the 4km over open water. In my book that’s totally worth not having to row the distance!
Once on the northern shore, I passed by the Sitojaure cabin, got an interview for the Cabin Host Series, had a couple of coffees and some nice conversation before continuing just over an hour up the trail until I found this beautiful spot among the small lakes here!
I’m actually more than half a day ahead of my intended schedule and made the decision today to reach Saltoluokta already tomorrow, giving myself a real rest day on Friday and continue northbound on Saturday!
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After a really good nights sleep, I felt the urge to compensate all my sitting on a plane the day before with a good chunk of hiking.
Staying at a hotel downtown and with local transport being more of a joke, it seemed just right to start by walking the few km’s up to the trailhead.
Already on beforehand I decided to hike up India Venster, definitely my favorite access way to the mountaintop from last time I was in Cape Town.
Lucky enough, the wind was too strong for the cable car to operate and so I already suspected that the top would be nice and quiet.
Not many people on the trail, I passed two couples pretty soon after starting the hike and then didn’t meet anyone until close to the end of the trail, when two guys who originally came up Platterklip gorge and had planned for the cable car on the way down, passed by in the opposite direction.
Here I decided to backtrack my way down to the starting point once having checked out the upper station.
I was pretty keen on a coffee and have to admit being a little disappointed when it turned out nothing had opened up for the day… The thought that all the people working up there, of course, got transported with the cable car, hadn’t crossed my mind, and I had built up some expectation of the tasty Flat White I would enjoy once finishing the climb. Anyway, water did have to suffice and soon after my arrival I headed back down, only wearing shorts and a t-shirt was quickly getting chilly in the wind.
Lots of fun going down the same route, just take it easy when it gets steep. You might have found out Yourself it’s sometimes faster going up than down when the gig involves some climbing 😉
Met a few people coming up the trail and passed a group going down after having climbed the Platterklip Gorge and originally wanting to go down by cable car.
Frankly, I was a little baffled by the choice to take this route as an alternative to the cable, it’s definitely not the easiest one!
Anyway, once at the contour path crossing I decided to call it a day and return to my hotel, naturally making a stop for some good coffee on the way!
Please let me know if You tried this route or plan to do so!
Camp at the creek junction west of Gierdogiesjtjåhkkå
Finally, a day when the weather once more was playing nicely and invited both to a midday stop and going a little farther than I originally planned.
After the early stop yesterday I woke up already at 5 am, spending the next half hour or so in a state of meditation and contemplation before leaving my sleeping bag. Though it had rained some during the night, it stopped hours earlier and this morning the clouds looked friendly with a lot of blue skies visible between them. I started the day wiping off the tent to give it a fair chance to dry while I went through my morning routine!
Shortly after 7 am I started packing my stuff and, when taking the tent down, I found the bottom to be really wet still. Just a few minutes hanging it in the wind after wiping it off took care of that, and just after 8, I was all ready to go.
The same guy who told me about the campsite, also mentioned that there is a path following right along the river bank, and here also he turned out to be well informed. The trail was beautifully smooth and easy to follow, the only challenges being quite a few rivers that would normally have made me change shoes to cross. Today that was something I wanted to avoid as long as possible to protect the fresh bandage on my left heel. So, with fighting the bushes to get to more narrow spots and quite a few rather risky, and definitely not advisable, jumps, I managed to maintain dry feet throughout the day!
Passing through the wetlands next to the river when the time came to head uphill, I was immensely grateful for the high shafts on my boots, and all the layers of grease band wax I treated the leather too!
Following the stream Alep Vassajajågåsj uphill after crossing over, I found the expected trail. Just sooo much more distinct and easy to follow than I would have thought.
I also found an abundance of mushrooms, picking more than I actually would need for one dinner, planning for a delicious treat!
Once above the tree line, I continued high on the mountainside, aiming to cross the next major stream, Julep Vassajajågåsj, uphill from where it forms a really deep canyon. Another rather dangerous leap and some splashing of water, I reached the other side once again with completely dry shoes and socks!
From here on there is a marked trail leading eastbound along my intended route, though I still choose to stay higher up on the mountainside for the added benefit of better photo opportunities!
Lots of fun jumping on rocks and the last parts of today’s hike went by swiftly, arriving at this beautifully wild location shortly after 4 pm.
I did go a little farther today than I originally intended, tomorrow’s hike should generally be easier than today’s and maybe I add some extra depending on weather conditions and how I feel.
I still need to find out how it works out with crossing the lake to get to Sitojaure cabin and the continuing northbound trail. There’s a rowing boat system, yet the distance is about 4km and I’m not too keen on that kind of upper body exercise in the midst of this all.
Should be possible to buy a ride with a motorboat, tomorrow will tell!
Funny enough, it’s raining again now! Can’t say how grateful I am that it started only after I got settled here and can stay dry and warm inside!
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I woke up rather early around 6 am after just 9 hours in my sleeping bag, no real rain during the night and I slept fairly undisturbed. Stayed still for some time to not disturb people nearby and a good half hour later I started my day with reading and a cup of coffee!
Turns out most of my neighbors were also early risers and as soon I was finished with my morning routine, I had a couple of good conversations.
Finally, I started the hike at 9 am heading southeastward towards Snawavagge and then Rapavalley. The trail was, once again, easy to walk and follow. There were a few stretches of wetlands where one has to find one’s own track, yet the trail is always there again on the other side. Just make sure You’re on the beaten track before continuing too far, there are quite a few reindeer tracks that might be a little confusing.
The first river crossing was covered by a huge step between two large rocks between a small waterfall. Looking a lot sketchier than it really was.
Coming up on the second crossing, just before the fork in the trail, there was no real alternative to changing shoes and getting my feet wet.
Shortly after I felt a slight discomfort at the back of my left heel, stopped to check it, and it showed that all the river crossings finally had gotten the better of my bandaged blister. Compeed and everything were soaked and coming off…
Great reminder to keep taking small signs seriously, especially when it’s about the feet. It just took a few minutes to get everything dried out and rebandaged, and I was ready to continue without risk of worsening the issue. This was one thing that, if ignored, could have jeopardized the entire future plan for the tour.
Now, after that second river crossing, You’ll find a bunch of different trail separating from each other. The right one is really well used and quite easy to distinguish from the reindeer tracks and soon You’ll also find the first stone marker. They are few and far apart, yet as long as You walk on a real clear trail and see boot prints regularly, You should be good.
The trail slowly turns southward after one more river crossing and after some time it gets rather steep on the west side of Bielatjåhkkå. I’d like to recommend against doing that stretch during heavy rain, rather wait for decent weather!
After that slightly sketchy part the trail ascends quite steeply up to Snawavagge where it passes by a few lakes and some really awesome campsites.
I had been recommended to camp right after exiting the valley at its eastern mouth, yet two considerations made me continue. One was plainly the time of day, it was just way too early to stop, and the other one was the rather heavy wind that made me prefer descending into the valley. A decision that was proven right by the gushes passing through the air later in the afternoon and evening.
Finding a really nice place close to the river, that also corresponded well with the description of the last descent site for the rest of the valley hike, I stopped around 3 pm and got settled. While still receiving some rain showers, I could dry some equipment outside and pitch a decently dry tent.
The weather looks a little friendlier now towards evening and I look forward to a calm night!
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