Lapland2018

Tour of 2018 – Day 18, August 13th 2018

Camp at Rapa Ätno
I woke up rather early around 6 am after just 9 hours in my sleeping bag, no real rain during the night and I slept fairly undisturbed. Stayed still for some time to not disturb people nearby and a good half hour later I started my day with reading and a cup of coffee!
Turns out most of my neighbors were also early risers and as soon I was finished with my morning routine, I had a couple of good conversations.
Finally, I started the hike at 9 am heading southeastward towards Snawavagge and then Rapavalley. The trail was, once again, easy to walk and follow. There were a few stretches of wetlands where one has to find one’s own track, yet the trail is always there again on the other side. Just make sure You’re on the beaten track before continuing too far, there are quite a few reindeer tracks that might be a little confusing.
The first river crossing was covered by a huge step between two large rocks between a small waterfall. Looking a lot sketchier than it really was.
Coming up on the second crossing, just before the fork in the trail, there was no real alternative to changing shoes and getting my feet wet.
Shortly after I felt a slight discomfort at the back of my left heel, stopped to check it, and it showed that all the river crossings finally had gotten the better of my bandaged blister. Compeed and everything were soaked and coming off…
Great reminder to keep taking small signs seriously, especially when it’s about the feet. It just took a few minutes to get everything dried out and rebandaged, and I was ready to continue without risk of worsening the issue. This was one thing that, if ignored, could have jeopardized the entire future plan for the tour.
Now, after that second river crossing, You’ll find a bunch of different trail separating from each other. The right one is really well used and quite easy to distinguish from the reindeer tracks and soon You’ll also find the first stone marker. They are few and far apart, yet as long as You walk on a real clear trail and see boot prints regularly, You should be good.
The trail slowly turns southward after one more river crossing and after some time it gets rather steep on the west side of Bielatjåhkkå. I’d like to recommend against doing that stretch during heavy rain, rather wait for decent weather!
After that slightly sketchy part the trail ascends quite steeply up to Snawavagge where it passes by a few lakes and some really awesome campsites.
I had been recommended to camp right after exiting the valley at its eastern mouth, yet two considerations made me continue. One was plainly the time of day, it was just way too early to stop, and the other one was the rather heavy wind that made me prefer descending into the valley. A decision that was proven right by the gushes passing through the air later in the afternoon and evening.
Finding a really nice place close to the river, that also corresponded well with the description of the last descent site for the rest of the valley hike, I stopped around 3 pm and got settled. While still receiving some rain showers, I could dry some equipment outside and pitch a decently dry tent.
The weather looks a little friendlier now towards evening and I look forward to a calm night!

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Peace // Claes

Tour of 2018 – Day 17, August 12th 2018

 Camp at Skarja
Wow, what a night! It started raining around 4:30 pm yesterday and kept pouring down more or less intense the entire night and morning. Finally, shortly after 11 am the rain started to subside and minutes later I could wipe off the majority of the water from the rain fly.
Just after noon I had everything packed up more or less dry and could continue my journey after spending 20h inside the tent. I guess God wanted me to have another rest period!
Starting on a downhill slope towards the river I soon found myself on the trail again. From here on it’s very clear and easy to follow, it just blurs out into several separate ‘suggestions’ a couple of times during the day and it’s always effortless to find the main trail.
I pass two rivers, swollen by the heavy rain, that normally would be easy to cross without changing. Today it was an adventure and I chose to gamble a little, betting high boot shafts, skills, experience, and good balance against, maybe, better judgment. It worked out, though, and I saved a lot of time – besides, getting one’s feet dry when it rains is not an easy endeavor.
Soon after the second crossing, I arrive at the reindeer watcher cabin marked on the map. Turns out it’s being kept open as an emergency cabin, and people left it in a depressing state, full of trash piles and with the outer door removed. Kinda makes me sad…
Now, entering Ruohtesvagge, I come to the one major river crossing of the day, being fed by a large glacier in the southwest and swollen by the rain, it’s wide, murky and super cold. One guy I met yesterday told me the water went halfway up his thighs, and that was before all the rain…
Turns out he must have picked the wrong spot to cross, I never got wet above my knees. The main challenge was the cold and I admit it took me maybe an hour afterward before my feet felt normal again.
The rest of the trail was a breeze, nice and soft for the feet and super easy to follow. A couple of rather easy crossings, and soon (well a few hours later) I reached the emergency cabin here at Skarja. Due to the weather, there were quite a lot of people choosing to camp here and have the option of dinner inside, leaving a total of eight tents on the ground.
I had dinner early and left for my tent to make space for others, looking at checking out for the night around 9 pm.
Super special view around here now due to the clouds and rain all around us!

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Peace // Claes

Tour of 2018 – Day 16, August 11th 2018

Camp on the eastern slope of Gisuris
Back off the grid again!
After getting an interview for the cabin host series, I left Akka cabin at 10 am and headed down the Padjelanta trail towards Kisuris.
As usual, the trail was nice, soft and easy to walk!
About 1.5h into the hike I changed into rain gear and 30min later a really heavy and rather lengthy shower hit. Once that was over the wind picked up and soon my gear was all dry again!
Just about 1km before reaching the Kisuris cabin, there are two bridges right after each other and the trail leading south takes off almost immediately after crossing the first bridge. It’s really easy to find the right one, though there are several leading into the birch forest. Just follow the one that leads up in the ridge between the two rivers and You’re good!
The trail is unmarked yet well used and very easy to follow, after passing the Kisuris ‘kåta’ it turns fainter and one just needs chooses one’s own track!
I originally planned to go passed the kåta and actually didn’t make it too much farther before I found a nice place on the mountain side. As I didn’t sleep very well last night and the weather looked like more rain I decided to call it a day after just six hours of hiking.
After pitching the tent I made myself a cup of tea and that’s about when the rain started. And it hasn’t stopped yet…
Accompanied by a strong wind and even stronger gushes, it’s been pouring down heavily for the last 2.5h with no real end in sight.
Normally going for the view, I’m so glad I stayed lower on the mountain this time, still, my tent gets shaken more than ever before!
The temperature inside is just 10C (50F) and falling so it’s time to get into the sleeping bag for some reading before trying to go to sleep. I sure hope this storm passes by swiftly!

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Peace // Claes

Tour of 2018 – Day 15, August 10th 2018

Akka cabin
This has been a real rest day for me, slept in until almost 8am and, after taking down the tent, spent most of the am inside the cabin. Taking care of equipment, chatting with other hikers, drinking coffee and tea, and just resting. I totally needed this!
The boat left at 2 pm and I kept my promise to myself even after getting to the other side of the lake. Akka cabin is only 2km from where the boat lands, and that was as far as I went!
Turned out there were no other guests at the time and after chopping some wood I fired up the sauna and spent over an hour switching between the hot sauna and cold shower.
After dinner and some reading inside I’m going out to the tent early, there is a really strong wind blowing from the lake and falling asleep might be a challenge!

The journey continues, please leave a comment to tell me what You think and share this with friends and loved ones who might benefit or be interested!

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Peace // Claes

Tour of 2018 – Day 14, August 9th 2018

Camp at Ritsem
Woke up rather early around 6 am, felt rested and ready to start the day. The sky was cloudy and looked like it would rain later so I wiped off the tent first thing and let the rest of the moisture blow away in the wind while getting through my morning routine and ready for the day. Thankfully no rain in the morning and I could break everything down dry!
Just before 8 am I started on the trail towards Ritsem and followed it through the birch forest. Now, rain-drenched birch forest with lots of low bushes and occasional wetlands (yet I have to admit the trail for the most part elegantly led between the really wet areas) has never been my favorite condition when hiking. And 1.5h into the day it started to rain again, light at first and then more and more heavy rain, the kind that gets You wet all the way to the bare skin regardless of what kind of rain gear You’re wearing. Don’t know for sure if it’s all the mental and emotional work I’ve been through in the last years, the fact that I’m in ketosis, or both, yet I was in a perfect and pleasant mood the entire way.
After some time the trail raised above the tree line and I’m sure the view over Akkajaure and the Akka mountains on the opposite shore would be majestic, if not obscured by clouds and rain. I got a few glimpses of the view, though most of the time there was only mist, clouds, and raindrops around me.
Now, the trail itself was remarkably clear and easy to follow. Just a couple of times during the 20km I had to stop and look twice where to go next. Even the parts through the thickest woods were clear enough and nearing Ritsem there was an almost ridiculous amount of red paint used to mark the trail.
Ironically the rain stopped almost entirely just about 1km before I reached the mountain station and the rest of the day was dry. Still, I spend most of it inside, taking care of equipment, chatting with other hikers and purposefully overeating on keto foods.
I felt I had taken in way too little energy during the first two weeks and started my stay in Ritsem with six eggs scrambled in 100g of butter, at night followed by my usual dinner and a generous amount of nuts!
Oh, and yes, the mattress situation got sorted, they had one last, very old fashion, mattress still in stock. I’m really grateful I did not have to spend more than 24h going to Gällivare, and having to stay there overnight, just to replace the damaged gear!
I also decided to go for the afternoon boat to Änonjalme the next day, and aim for a real rest day! I think my legs will reward me for that in the weeks to come!

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Peace // Claes

Tour of 2018 – Day 13, August 8th 2018

Camp at the bridge west of Ubmasvarasj
What a pleasant morning at Røysvatnhyttene, I slept in until about 8 am and enjoyed quite a few lazy hours in and around the cabin. Weather was sunny with a light breeze and it was very nice to sit outside with a cup of coffee just reading a book.
At 1 pm I left the cabin and followed the trail south until it crossed the ’gränsleden’ (border trail) where I turned eastbound on that trail.
My mattress had developed such a hump that sleeping on it was causing me neck pain and I needed to replace it. So I headed off towards Ritsem and decided to split the 40km into two more or less equal parts.
The trail was easy to follow and pleasant to walk, no real ups and downs, just a very mellow hike on the mostly soft ground.
Passing over Vakkatjavelk the trail is not consistent with how it’s marked on the map, just follow the stone markers and You’ll get there!
Coming down from that little mountain I encountered (and startled) quite a few reindeers. Finally I also ran into som ripe cloud berries and could pick a handful just next to the trail. A welcome taste of fresh berries, I love the tartness of them!
Reaching the bridge I quickly found a suitable campsite and after pitching the tent and having a quick dinner I just stretched out for a few minutes inside the tent.
Waking up about 1.5h later to heavy rain falling, I got ready for the night and slipped under my sleeping bag.

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Peace // Claes

Tour of 2018 – Day 12, August 7th 2018

Camp at Røysvatnhyttene
Well, my restful night inside the cabin turned out to be everything else but as expected.
I woke up at 00:15 by the loud noises of people arriving, turned out that a group of 8-10 people just came in and intended to start cooking. After asking them twice to keep the noise down (according to NOT rules it shall be quiet after 11 pm), I just grabbed all my stuff and moved over to the smaller cabin. Hoping that these people would at least have the sense not to disturb there as well…
Luckily enough they didn’t and after some initial difficulty going back to sleep, I finally slept until 7 am.
Having had a rather large dinner the night before, finishing off the first batch of pecans as desert, I went for coffee only in the morning. Before 9 am I had everything packed and went to check on my fellow guest from the other cabin, yet she already departed. The group was also gone and I noticed that none of them had registered their stay in the cabin, thereby also clearly indicating that they didn’t intend to pay the fee. On top of that, they also left the cabin without either cleaning or locking it. This is, of course, completely unacceptable as the whole operation with the cabins here in Norway builds on trust and people paying the fees voluntarily.
Looking out I could still see the group on their way to Sitashyttene, yet they were too far for me to catch up easily enough and so I just started my hike towards Røysvatnhyttene.
There is a system of rowing boats to get past a narrow part of the lake and while on the water I’m overflown by a helicopter. They landed not far ahead of me and I soon saw the chopper on its way back again.
Reaching the first bridge I was presented with the explanation, three guys doing repair work on a bridge that definitely needed it.
Turns out they work with the NOT and one of the guys is the father of the boss.
Besides, these guys are 84,82 and 75 years of age, and still doing rather hard physical labour out here – respect!!!
I mentioned the issues with the group and that they’re heading towards Sitas and the three men were very interested in taking care of the matter. I hope they managed to land a helicopter on the group and set the matter right! Anyhow, I could now drop the whole thing.
Also, I got the number of the bosses father and he asked me to report anything that needs attention along the trails in Norway!
The whole rest of the day was just a pleasure, the weather was really nice, partly sunny summer day with a breeze that was far from chilly. The trail was pleasant to walk yet in some stretches really faint and poorly marked, at the same time there’s a bunch of reindeer tracks.
I highly recommend being really observant for the markers and, if You chose to hike this part, to make sure You’re ridiculously comfortable following map and compass. Chances are that You’ll lose the trail more than once, it always shows up again, though!
I took a short break at the bridge south of Skuogejavrre to charge my phone (sun came out brightly right there) and pick some mushrooms before continuing the last part to the cabin.
Arriving here I found the place deserted and, looking around, there was a sauna in a separate building!!!
Sooo good to be able to clean up again for real, the water in the lake was cold yet not freezing and sitting in the sauna first even allowed for a short (very short…) swim.
Finally, after cleaning up myself and washing some clothes, I had dinner after around 22h fasted. Adding in the mushrooms made it even more delicious and enjoyable, I’m just stoked how energetic and content I feel hiking that far in this region without having to eat all the time. I love being in ketosis and enjoy the freedom to choose when to take in food!
Having found a really nice campsite just a little bit away from the cabin, I look forward to an undisturbed nights sleep!

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Peace // Claes

Tour of 2018 – Day 11, August 6th 2018

Pauro cabin
After a rain-free early morning, the weather turned and rain shower after rain shower filled the morning hours.
I spent more time than planned in the cabin and only left at 11 am when it looked like the rain had passed. No need to start a hiking day with rain if not absolutely necessary, especially with just 23km ahead. I had time to linger.
The plan to wait for the rain to pass didn’t work out too well, though. Just after I left the gravel road and hit the first ascent it started raining again and continued more or less constantly for the next three hours. After that, there was about an hour of no rain followed by several heavy showers.
The hike itself was beautiful and very enjoyable, no real physical challenges yet rather mellow ascents and descents. The area around the highest pass was a little rocky yet that was more than compensated by the soft and pleasant trail after the first descent. Also, the rocks gave remarkably good grip even while being wet from the rain, and I never once slipped.
All in all a very nice hiking day, I’m so grateful that my new rain gear does its job really well!
Shortly before I reached Pauro I got hit by another rain shower, this time it still continues on outside, more than three hours later. The constant rain made me decide to stay inside for the night, the first time in 20 years I sleep inside a cabin.
Thankfully there’s only one other guest here and she’s got her own room!

The journey continues, please leave a comment to tell me what You think and share this with friends and loved ones who might benefit or be interested!

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Peace // Claes

Tour of 2018 – Day 10, August 5th 2018

Sitashyttene
For once I’m actually writing this sitting inside of a cabin, I just finished dinner and enjoy a cup of coffee and some 90% dark chocolate.
Got up this morning at quarter to 7 am after almost 11h in the sleeping bag, my body needed rest and it was raining in the early morning hours so no point in getting up early. As usual, tent got wiped off before I started my other morning routines and a good hour later all was dried out.
I left the campsite at 8:40 and started downhill towards the Gautelis dam and the gravel road on the other side that would take me to the trailhead for Skoaddajavre.
The sun showed itself just moments before I reached the dam and was an intermittent companion the entire day, making a great difference in temperature. It was rather chilly in the air, just over 10C (50F) midday, yet as soon as the sun came out it was very pleasant.
The hike from the gravel road to Skoaddajavre cabin was great, first a long stretch of moderate uphill, followed by more or less level with some tendencies to descent towards the cabin.
I had planned for a midday stop there and the weather was perfect and the cabin is located in such a beautiful place!
The afternoon started with a slight ascent to the most wonderful highland plateau, beautiful rock formations and a marvellous view of the surrounding higher mountains!
Descending includes about 260m of elevation that is brutally steep and hard on the legs, I’m stoked how well mine handled the challenge after what I put them through yesterday!
Now, there’s not much to say about the last stretch of the day… 14km (8.75 miles) of gravel road, fast to walk yet not very interesting. And there might be alternative ways going off trail over the mountains, this tour I just don’t have the time to go that route.
I have been planning to follow this part of the Nordkalottenleden for years and finally, I found a good window to do so. Some gravel in the process is a low price to pay, looking at the low water levels everywhere, the rest of the trail should be a blast!
Still, I have to admit, that 34km in a day is a little too much, even counting the ease of walking on gravel. I’m tired and my feet are pretty sore, it’s gonna be another early night and I’m happy that no one else is here in the cabin.

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Peace // Claes

Tour of 2018 – Day 9, August 4th 2018

Camp below the southern mouth of Dolbotvagge
This day had a theme of walking on rocks and covering elevation, most of the tour happened in higher altitudes, over 900m, and involved a lot of stepping from rock to rock.
I started at 990m, went down to 630m, up to 1270, down to 1100, up again to 1210 and ended at 910m. Quite a few of the climbs and descents were rather steep!
Got woken up by heavy rain around 4 am this morning and lay listening to the drops falling on the tent for quite some time before I fell back asleep. Next time I woke up the rain had stopped and when I got up at 7 am my first action was to wipe off the tent so it could dry in the wind.
Wasn’t hungry at all so I just had a plain coffee without any fat while going through my morning routine and getting ready for the day!
Just shy of 9 am I picked up my backpack and went down to the glacier river, this time planning to give it a try upstream of the sediment delta. It worked out pretty well, I just had to change to get over the last stream and the bottom was made up of rocks so this was so much easier.
Once past the stream, the descent back to the gravel road was rather swift and soon I had made my way to the next trailhead and back into nature!

I love the hike up to Smaileriehpas, it starts with a fun river crossing (there’s a new bridge close to the lake that I deliberately ignored) and the valley is wild, beautiful and always different. This year there was so little snow left on the other ridge and an almost inconceivable amount of water came down from the snowfields and glaciers.

The ascent was rather heavy, yet I can’t say if that was due to the late evening climb up to Storsteynshytta or my fatless morning coffee.
I reached my favorite spot, right next to a little waterfall, close to the highest point of the pass around 1 pm and stopped for a coffee with PF, some jerky and walnuts.
The sun came out behind the clouds and warmed the air, yet as soon as it got obscured again the temperature was rather chilly and I moved on after an hour.
My plan was to continue for 3-4 more hours, or until I find a really nice spot for my tent.
Compared to last year the tour was rough, no snow at all, just rocks and some small patches of dirt. Even for me, it takes a lot of concentration and mental focus to keep the pace on that kind of ground and after some time it becomes rather tiring.
I got to the south end of Dolbotvagge in good time and originally wanted to do the 3km gravel road leading over towards the nest stretch of trail. Mainly to avoid having to do it first thing in the morning tomorrow.
Yet on the way down, I spotted a great campsite near the waterfall coming down from the mouth of Dolbotvagge and quickly decided to stay in the wild and do the gravel tomorrow.
Thereby, it turned out, I also got my tent set up just in time to get inside before the first rain shower really got started. And since then the rain has barely stopped at all…
There’s definitely been a complete weather change from the first week out and I’m so grateful that the girls got to experience the nice weather!
Even down here, at about 900m of elevation, the evening is rather cold and I’ll probably get into the sleeping bag early!

The journey continues, please leave a comment to tell me what You think and share this with friends and loved ones who might benefit or be interested!

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Peace // Claes